Sunday, June 24, 2012

Goat First Aid Kit

Updated March 2016

A first aid kit for goats can be a real lifesaver.  Generally, I divide first aid supplies into 2 categories - those that are for critical life-saving intervention where seconds count, and those that you have time to go to the store and purchase (although they should be kept on hand if possible)

Your goat can die within seconds or minutes from just a few things. Severe blood loss, shock, snake bite, allergic reaction or poisoning.  (Previous post on rhododendron poisoning)

Critical life-saving supplies:
My favorite liquid trace minerals and/or blood stop powder
My favorite prebiotic
activated charcoal
Montmorrillonite clay
homeopathic Nux Vomica 30C
Rubber tubing of the appropriate diameter and length to insert in the nostril/nasal cavity in case of snake bite to the nose
epinephrine if you give your own shots (consult with your veterinarian for supply and dosage)

National Animal Poison Control Center Numbers

1-900-680-0000 $20 for the first 5 minutes, then $2.95/minute after. Charged to your phone bill
1-800-548-2423 $30.00 per case, (bills to your VISA, Mastercard, Discover or American Express only)
The 800 number cost includes follow-up calls and will consult with your veterinarian.

Other first aid kit ingredients:
There are many good online sources of first aid kit ingredient lists and complete kits.
All of these lists and kits are based on conventional western medicine.

Also check out my favorite Topical Aid Kit

A good homeopathic first aid kit can be very handy as well. Dr Edgar Sheaffer is a highly regarded vet specializing in homeopathy.  He offers a complete 40 remedy farm kit  There are a few key remedies that should be kept on hand, if you opt not to purchase an entire farm kit.  See my personal list below.

My personal first aid kit:
Everything listed on the critical supplies list above
My favorite wound salve, my favorite balm, oral flower essence blend for fear & stress, topical flower essence blend, oral flower essence blend for high spirits without fear , chelated colloidal silver, tea tree oil,
basic wound cleaning and bandaging supplies
surgical scissors, syringes, needles
alcohol, peroxide
Rescue Remedy
Basic homeopathic remedies in 30C potency:  Nux Vomica, Arnica, Hypericum, Ledum, Thuja, Urtica

Also learn how to do basic TTouch ear work for animals in shock. Start at the base of the ear, cup your hand around the ear to fold the ear on itself with your fingers on one side and thumb on the other, and slide along the length of the ear. When you reach the tip, rub it between your thumb and fingers to activate the shock point. Keep repeating the slide and the rub of the tip. You can also make circles or rub around the base of the ear, where it joins the head, to activate the acupuncture point for digestion and respiration. 

I practice good preventative nutrition and find I very rarely need anything from my first aid kit or a visit from the vet.  Prevention is always better and less expensive than treatment.

Finally, a gun and a very sharp knife.  May you never need either.  In the horrible situation of a totally stuck kid or a rupture or other terminal situation, no vet available, and mom suffering, have the supplies you need to put her down humanely and to retrieve the kid(s).  Always attempt to get a vet first.  Always.  And there may come a time when the worst happens and you are faced with a dying mom and dying kids.  Read this article and visit this Pinterest board BEFORE you need it , and save both links somewhere handy.

If you have any questions about first aid kit ingredients, please feel free to contact me.

Copyright ©2016 Carrie Eastman.

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration or American Veterinary Medical Association, and are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease. Always consult your veterinarian about any changes to your animal’s health program.

Tips for bringing home a new kid

Bringing Home A New Kid
by Carrie Eastman

Whether you are shopping for your first goats, or adding to your herd, picking out a new kid (or three) is always exciting.  So you've found your kid and you're ready to go pick him or her up.  Are you prepared?  Here are my thoughts on preparing for and picking up your new kid.

Before going to pick up your kid:
If you are asking your seller to vaccinate or deworm/delouse your kid, ask that this be done several days prior to your scheduled pickup to give the kids time to recover from the stress.

Locate a goat veterinarian in your area if you don't already have one.  Call and introduce yourself, get your information entered as a new client and learn their emergency numbers and hours.

Plan your transportation.  Kids should be transported in a safe enclosure, large enough that they can stand, turn around and lie down. Kids that do not know each other should not be squeezed together in a small crate. Kids should be protected from direct wind in the open back of a truck, and from the rain. (Side note about kids and bathroom habits: If you are transporting your kids in your car in a crate, keep in mind that kids can back up to the bars and pee or poop through the bars outside the crate.)

Assemble your goat first aid kit.

Set up your quarantine pen.  Besides secure fencing and shelter from the weather, you pen should include fresh water and free choice supplements.  I put out loose salt, baking soda and a mineral mix, each in a separate container.  You can google "goat biosecurity" for many articles on biosecurity procedures.

The day of pickup:
Before leaving the seller's place, ask if you can have a sample of hay and grain to help your kid transition onto the feed at your place.  A one or two day supply is plenty.

Do you have a signed sales contract?  Your kid's medical records?  Get these before you leave.

When you get home:
Once you get your kid home, put your new kid in the quarantine pen.  Plan on keeping your kids apart from your goats long enough for any illnesses to show up.  There are many opinions about isolation times ranging from 2 to 6 weeks.  To some extent, the time depends on where you got your kid.  Kids from a known breeder whose management practices you trust will need a shorter time than a kid you bought at auction.  I personally have waiting only a few days with kids from a local breeder I trust.   No nose rubbing through the fences with your other goats or shared feed/water buckets please.  Change your shoes or clean your boots when entering and leaving the pen.  Wash your hands.   If you got a single new kid, pick one goat from your herd that is a good size and temperment match to live with your kid.

I like to withhold grain for the first 24 hours at least, waiting until I see that the kid has calmed down and is settling in.  Only hay and forage during this transition.  When the kid is settled, then slowly add grain back into the diet.

I give a prebiotic (not a probiotic) at least twice daily for the first couple days and during the transition back onto grain.  I use this one.

After the first week (assuming the kid is settled in and healthy), if the kid was vaccinated, I give a dose of homeopathic thuja 30C by mouth.  I also give some montmorrillonite clay and some zeolite for a few days.

Quarantine is also a good time to do a fecal check for parasites (including tapeworms) and deworm as necessary.  See my blog post on parasites for more information.

The quarantine period is also a good time for your veterinarian to check your kid and perform any testing for diseases.  (What diseases you test for, if any, is a topic for another post.)  Some breeders consider the vet check optional during quarantine. 

Once your kid finishes quarantine, you can begin the transition into your herd.  Watch for excessive bullying and be prepared to intervene if necessary.  During the transition, resume the daily prebiotic and make sure your kid is getting access to the free choice baking soda, salt and minerals.

Have fun with your new goat!

Copyright ©2016 Carrie Eastman.

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration or American Veterinary Medical Association, and are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease. Always consult your veterinarian about any changes to your animal’s health program.