Thursday, February 27, 2014

Water

All About Goats & Water
by Carrie Eastman

Four major sources for water: 

Rain (captured before it hits the ground - some people may call this Irrigation water) - is only as clean as your air, capture method and holding tanks. In some areas rain water is quite acidic. 

Surface (ponds/streams) - From rain/snow, it runs on top of the ground and any chemicals or poo are mixed in from surface contamination. 

Ground (Well or Springs) - I would expect Ground water (wells or springs) to have the greatest mineral content. Ground Water comes out of water sources under the ground, not underground rivers or lakes - actually more like a spongy diaper. Gravity holds in the water, and rock holds out the dirt. Either you drill down through dirt and different types of rock to get to it (Wells) or the land is worn thin in the spot and it bubbles up (Springs). A water source that bubbles up through pipes on it's own without a pump is a Gravity Well. Which the old folks sometimes called a Deep Spring. Ground water 'recharges' from incredibly slow snow melt and rain trickling through all the rock and dirt to get to what is basically an area with lots of little cracks - like a sponge - that hold the water. Water in most wells is limited in amount to the size of the holding tank it is being pumped into or the size of the natural holding space, called the water table. 

Municipal - Comes from a variety of sources (rivers, wells, reservoirs) and it may have been mechanically filtered, treated with chlorine, ozonation, flocculants or other chemicals such as fluoride - and is piped to your home. Most people would call this Tap water. To the best of my knowledge no municipal water system or sewage treatment plant has found a way to remove hormones and other drugs peed into the system upstream. (This information was based on US Government testing in the last few years and obtained directly from someone involved with the testing and reporting. Nobody is paying attention.)

Last water source, and often overlooked - Cloud or fog. Our pastures remain green at times when our down-mountain neighbors have dry fields. This was taken into consideration when choosing the location. Even if we don't get outright 'rain', we get 'dewed'.

An important point: Anyone using Well water should have it tested - check with your local Extension Service. Some wells need to be cleaned and flushed every year or two. (For those of you in areas where drilling may be occurring, test your water BEFORE they start work to get a base-line. You will need this to prove you had clean water before any drilling or fracking was done. All the testing in the world AFTER drilling and fracking is useless. You'd be amazed at the number of people who drink contaminated water for years and only test it after drilling starts.)

Water can be filtered.  www.purewaterproducts.com sells filters that screw onto the end of a hose, as well as other types of filters.  Ask about their discounted scratch and dent and refurbished models.  The folks at that company have great customer service.  Berkey also makes fantastic water filters.  www.berkeyfilters.com

Many people water their livestock using hoses.  Garden hoses contain lead and chemicals to inhibit algae growth. Potable water hoses are labeled for use for human drinking water, and are usually blue or white.  These hoses are much safer.  Hoses that have sat in sun should have water flushed through them before use, in case of leached chemicals.

Stock tanks and water buckets are made of hard plastic, rubber, or galvanized metal.  In general, the hard plastic is the safest.  Rubber has cancer-causing ethoxyquin added in the manufacturing process.  Galvanized metal can leach metals into the water, especially if the water is acidic.

Water can also be cleared energetically.  Sounds pretty whoo-hoo, yet I've seen it work.  Dr Emoto has published a bunch of photos of the ways that water structure shifts in reaction to energy.  http://emotopeaceproject.blogspot.com 

Copyright ©2016 Carrie Eastman.

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration or American Veterinary Medical Association, and are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease. Always consult your veterinarian about any changes to your animal’s health program.

Wednesday, February 19, 2014

2017 update: Help for fleas, ticks, flies, lice and internal parasites - for dogs, horses & goats

updated February 2017

I have reduced my use of chemicals down to a handful of times in the past few years.  Some of my animals have had none at all, some a bit, depending on their immune system.  My goal is to be entirely chemical-free as soon as possible.

I use my eyes, reflex points, surrogate muscle testing and the occasional fecal test to check for parasites.  If I find a parasite issue, I use the same reflex points and/or surrogate muscle testing to check which products clear the issue.

In general, if a chemical is the only solution, I follow the chemical with several days of clay/diatomaceous earth/digestive aid* or montmorrillonite clay*.

Every early spring and late fall (around the first killing frost), I use an herbal detoxification blend* for 28 days for the dogs and horses per label amounts, and for 14 days for the goats at 1/4 teaspoon per 10 pounds bodyweight.  During the herbal liver cleanse, I stop using the basic supplements other than my favorite prebiotic*

This is an excellent reference article on parasites.  http://www.clarkvetclinic.com/images/NATURAL_APPROACHES_TO_PARASITE_CONTROL.doc

If the animal has signs of anemia or I suspect internal bleeding from the parasites, I use a liquid trace mineral concentrate*.  For a 1000lb horse, I use 30 drops/day for 2 weeks, longer if needed. For a 60lb goat or dog, I use 10 drops/day for 2 weeks, longer if needed.

Species specific tips

Horses - I use the parasite reflex point to look for the issue.  Then use the parasite point and the liver point to identify the product that safely clears the issue (Come to a class with Dr Golob to learn these points, or order his DVD www.docgolob.com ).  Most commonly, the issue clears with the 7 day herbal* cleanse, "miracle" clay* or a chelated copper blend*.  If I run a fecal, I only consider there to be a problem if the egg count is above 200 per gram.  Contact me for my 7 day recipe.


I have found the herbal detoxifier* orally also helps greatly with lice on horses.  So does dusting with diatomaceous earth, neem oil, and my favorite blend of bug-repellent oils*.

For ticks on horses, I find that generally keeping the horses healthy minimizes their attractiveness to the ticks.  I pick off any ticks that I find.  I use my oil blend* as needed, free range chickens or guinea fowl. I believe the Fly Free bands around the pasterns combines with trimming the tail short enough not to drag the ground also helps.  http://www.jefferspet.com/fly-free-zone/camid/EQU/cp/0034639/

Should Lyme or West Nile become an issue, please contact me, as there are several holistic protocols that people have found very effective.

Dogs - I use yes/no muscle testing or observation to look for most parasites.  I have the vet check for heartworms annually.  For most internal parasites, I use the herbal detoxifier* at the higher label dose for 7 days as needed.  For external parasites, I use my favorite repellent oil blend* as needed when they go outside.  I also rub some neem oil through their fur after every bath.  This is sufficient for my house dogs that are outside a few hours daily.

For tapeworms, a simple mix of shredded raw carrot and kyolic garlic drops in their food for 7 days usually resolves the issue.

For heartworm exposure, add a mix of wormwood and black walnut tincture at 20 drops twice per week on the food during the warm season.

The fly free collar is another option for dogs. http://www.jefferspet.com/fly-free-dog-collar/camid/PET/cp/0034704/

As with the horses, I depend on free-range chickens or guinea fowl to control many of the ticks.

Goats - I use yes/no muscle testing, clumpy poo, weight loss, gum color as indicators of a potential problem.  I also just observe, as external parasites are easy to spot.  I use yes/no muscle testing to confirm my observations and determine the solution.  I surrogate test my own liver point to check the safety of the solution.

Here is an extensive blog entry on goat parasites.  http://oakhillfainters.blogspot.com/2012/05/goat-parasites.html

This is an article about using lespedeza grazing to control parasites in goats.  (Lespedeza is not especially palatable for horses)http://www.extension.org/pages/19420/goat-pastures-sericea-lespedeza

During the warm months, I will potentially use diatomaceous earth, pumpkin seeds, clay, a copper boost (not bolus), homeopathics or the herbal detox blend* at 1/4 tsp per 10 lbs bodyweight twice daily for 7 days.  Do NOT use the herbal blend on pregnant does!

The Fly Free collar is another option for goats, although not practical for large herds. http://www.jefferspet.com/fly-free-goat-collar/camid/LIV/cp/FK-F4/

For lice, my favorite repellent oil blend* works miracles, not only repelling the adults but smothering the eggs as well.  I also dust with diatomaceous earth for lice.

Product Links

*http://www.dynamitemarketing.com/carrieeastman for my favorite products

www.jefferslivestock.com or www.jeffersequine.com or www.jefferspets.com for fly traps and Fly Free collars and bands

bugRIGHT

www.arbico-organics.com for nematodes

www.redmondnatural.com to locate a local food-grade diatomaceous earth distributor

http://www.kyolic.com/product/category/kyolic-liquid/

http://www.arbico-organics.com/?=1064

Would you like to learn how to muscle test?  Need some help choosing the best approach for your animals?  Contact me!  www.carrieeastman.com

Copyright ©2016, 2017 Carrie Eastman.

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration or American Veterinary Medical Association, and are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease. Always consult your veterinarian about any changes to your animal’s health program.

Lena. Dental health - how to check your horse

(Originally posted on 09/02/13)  When working with a new horse, I always look at hooves and teeth right away, followed by a body assessment. When Lena first came home, she was showing some pain around her tmj (temporomandibular joint). The tmj is the most critical joint in the body in many ways. It is the only paired joint in the body, meaning when one side moves the other has to move. Symmetry is critical. Many of the proprioceptive nerves originate in the first few vertebrae of the spinal cord, and tmj stress affects these nerves. Tmj function affects the entire spine and sacrum. So balancing the jaw and teeth are critical to healthy nerves and movement. I use Krystin Dennis at HorseFloss for all my horses' dental care. www.horsefloss.com Krystin found some points and also had to adjust Lena's upper incisors, which were too long and angling forward. Overall, Krystin said Lena has an excellent healthy mouth.


So how is your horse's mouth?  Does your horse's face have imbalanced muscle development in the forehead?  Are your horse's cheek muscles tight or sore?  Is your horse sensitive around the tmj?
How about inside your horse's mouth?  Do the incisors line up?  Do the incisors easily slide past each other if you raise and lower your horse's head?  Are there obvious hooks at the corners of the last incisors?  Does your horse obviously favor one side when chewing?
If you answered yes to any of these, it's time for the dentist!

There are some simple muscle releases that relieve pain and restore correct movement, after your horse's teeth have been done.  Contact me and I'll teach you how!
www.carrieeastman.com

Copyright ©2016 Carrie Eastman.

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration or American Veterinary Medical Association, and are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease. Always consult your veterinarian about any changes to your animal’s health program.